Peacocks were once again at the top of the jewelry chart at French Haute Couture Week in Paris this spring. The reason for the attention to the whimsical bird was once again Chopard earrings in the form of two peacocks. I will take this opportunity for a short excursion into the history of his diamond glory. Peacocks and peacock feathers are very popular images in jewelry. This image came to European jewelry from India. In our country, the peacock is perceived as a symbol of arrogance; they like to criticize the peacock for poor vocal abilities and for insufficiently aristocratic manners (chickens, what can you take from them).

But in South Asia and in the countries of the East in general, the peacock is treated completely differently. In Persian and Babylonian cultures, peacocks were considered symbolic royal guards. The peacock is a symbol of Buddha, and the Indian god of love Kama is often depicted sitting on this bird. The open tail of a peacock with numerous “eyes” was perceived as the starry heavens and all-seeing awareness.

The peacock was the sacred bird of the Vedic goddess of wisdom Saraswati. In Greece, the peacock was a symbol of Hera, in Ancient Rome – of Juno. The priestesses wore fans made of peacock feathers, which indicated the presence of the goddess. The peacock is one of the most common images in various forms of art, but the beauty and variety of colors of the peacock have especially inspired jewelers at all times.

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Zuni (Ind. Ashiwi) are a large group of Pueblo Indians living in the southwestern United States in western New Mexico. According to the results of the 2000 census, their number is 10,000 thousand people. They speak mostly their native language, but the modern generation speaks English and Spanish. Many have higher education. Traditional crafts – silversmithing with stone processing, pottery, gardening – peach orchards.

In religious views they adhere to indigenous beliefs, which is reflected in their art. Their cosmological model is divided by color (north – yellow, south – red, west – blue, east – white, zenith – multi-colored, nadir – black). It has 9 worlds – 4 lower, 4 upper and the real one.

The peoples are divided into the raw people (gods) and the day people (people). They believe that priests are able to take any form, communicate directly with the raw people and control natural phenomena.

Jewelry is an important and very visible manifestation of Zuni culture. Zuni jewelry is an expression of the continuity of ancient cultural traditions rooted in the American Southwest.

Before the arrival of the Spaniards in the Zuni lands, jewelry was made from shells and stone; later, silver was brought to America and it harmoniously joined the process of creating jewelry both for trade and for personal tribal use.

From the late nineteenth century into the early 1940s, Native American jewelry increasingly became recognized as a significant indigenous art form. This period saw the emergence of several individuals who have since become recognized as the “Old Masters” of Zuni art.

The popularization of Zuni inlay began in the 1920s. Key artists included Teddy Wihki, Frank Wakit, Leo Poblano, Lambert Homer, Eddie Boyukoy, Dennis Edaaki, Benn and Andrea Lonjose Shirley.

They have created jewels, works of art that appear to be alive… In the past 80 years there have been few artists capable of such magic.

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The wheel of human history, turning, sweeps away not only cities and civilizations, but also many everyday trifles. Vintage accessories that two hundred years ago were basic necessities are today even unknown to most people. And those accessories on which they spent a fortune are gathering dust on museum shelves. The last few centuries have made especially strong changes in our way of life and the “arsenal” of women today has become much poorer. Let’s see what little things the ladies have lost from their everyday life in the recent, from the point of view of world history, time.

Vintage accessories: Fan

The most famous of all antique accessories, the fan is always associated in our understanding with high society, balls and noble ladies of the Pushkin era. However, the history of this little thing is much more interesting and goes back about 3 thousand centuries. At different times, the fan (or fan), with the same functionality, carried a different semantic load: it was a symbol of power among the Assyrians, a sign of nobility among the ancient Egyptians, the embodiment of male and female principles in Japan and China.

In the European culture of the Middle Ages and later, he became an irreplaceable subject of seduction. The special “language of the fan” made it possible not only to encourage or discourage a gentleman, but also to appoint, for example, him a date for a certain time in a certain place. In addition, thanks to the paintings and jewelry inserts, the fans became real works of art. The cost of the individual was so great that they were accepted in banks as collateral.

Portbouquet

This case for fresh flowers was in vogue in the 18th-19th centuries. With its help, a small bouquet could be carried in hands without dirtying the outfit, or pinned to the bodice of a dress. In addition, with the help of sliding legs-stands, the accessory quickly turned into a miniature vase. Some models could even be filled with water. Now this little thing can be found, modified, in a wedding dress, well, in museums, in the form of jewelry delights of the past.

Chatelain

This extremely rational accessory has been popular since the Middle Ages and up to the 20th century. It was a special clip, to which various useful little things were attached on chains: a wallet, keys, a watch, a pencil, a thimble, etc. This design was worn on the belt. This was a salvation for the ladies who did not have a women’s handbag at that time. By the way, due to the high functionality of this little thing, it was worn not only by nobles, but also by commoners, both men and women. The beauty and value of Chatelain’s materials was a sign of belonging to high society.

Carne (Ball Book)

The balls were special events. Young debutantes usually connected their hopes and hopes with them. And so that forgetful young ladies did not confuse the order of the gentlemen, they made notes in a special booklet. Usually it was a dainty thing with a precious binding and a small pencil. With the help of a chain, it was attached to the wrist or dress. Ballroom books appeared in the 18th century in Vienna and were used until the second half of the 20th, gaining popularity both in Europe and in the USA.

Blokholovka

As you know, fleas in the old days were an unpleasant inevitability for people of all classes. A special gadget, fashionable in the 15th-16th centuries and later, was a small spinning insect trap. A fragrant bait was placed inside – a cloth soaked in honey, blood or resin. Fleas crawled in and stuck. Such a device could be placed inside the hair, under clothes, or placed next to the bed. By the way, at the same time, another accessory was popular, which is now known under the same name. It was a whole skin of a fur-bearing animal (marten or sable) with a head decoratively made in the form of jewelry. There is an opinion that the fur could lure annoying parasites onto itself, but there is no confirmation of this fact. Probably, it was just a decoration fashionable for its era.

Vinegar or snuff vial

Another fact that we know about ancient times is that the ladies at the balls constantly fainted. At the same time, they were necessarily “given to sniff the salt.” This is indeed the case. Usually the bottle contained a crystalline ammonium salt with a pungent odor. The bottles themselves were decorated in accordance with the taste and capabilities of the owner. The vinegar box served the same purpose; it contained cotton wool dipped in vinegar or ammonia.

Burdal

This item of intimate hygiene for ladies of the 17th-18th centuries was an attribute necessary on trips or at long-term events, and was, in fact, a “day vase”. Now it could be called a “duck”, although it served for the administration of natural necessities while standing. This was possible thanks to the special shape and comfortable handle. Usually this piece was made of earthenware or porcelain and covered with beautiful paintings, sometimes with a playful content. Servants most often helped to slip a water bottle under the lady’s skirts.

Snuff bottle

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The most stylish heroines of movies and TV series are the stars of Sisters Ratched, The Great and The Witches. Here’s how the costumes for the actresses we saw on screens and online platforms were created.

Stylish movie heroines set new trends and make us nostalgic for vintage.

The most stylish heroines of films and TV series: Princess Diana, “The Crown”

Princess Diana is known to this day as a fashion icon. Hailey Bieber and other celebrities are regularly inspired by her images. For the sake of the new season of “The Crown”, 15 iconic outfits of the ex-wife of Prince Charles were exactly recreated. The most talked about of them was the replica of Diana’s wedding dress. It was made by costume designer Amy Roberts. In order to help actress Emma Corin put it on, 10 people were required daily.

The March Sisters, Little Women

Director Greta Gerwig presented artist Jacqueline Durran with a daunting task. The outfit of each of the heroine sisters had to reflect her character. For example, Saoirse Ronan’s Josephine March acts like a tomboy and prefers comfortable clothes. Florence Pugh (aka Amy March) chooses luxurious dresses, while Meg March (Emma Utson) chooses feminine yet practical. By the way, it was not in vain: Jacqueline received an Oscar for the fashionable embodiment of the characters’ characters on the screen.

Harley Quinn, Birds of Prey: The Fantastic Story of Harley Quinn

After completing filming in the disastrous “Suicide Squad”, Margot Robbie set a condition – she herself would decide how to dress her heroine. A jacket in colored fringe (can anyone shake off the Christmas tinsel association?), Acid makeup, and striped suits. The actress said that her character should not be too sexualized. We hasten to inform: her plan has failed!

Catherine, “The Great”

Like everyone else, we blamed the series for ridiculous blunders. But they could not pass by the outfits of Emma Fryer. She has chosen some luxurious looks for Elle Fanning in accordance with the evolution of her character. On the day of the seizure of power, for example, she appeared before us in a bright crimson outfit.

Eva Ernst, “The Witches”

Robert Zemeckis reached out to costume designer Joanna Johnston to design unusual accessories for the High Witch. So Anne Hathaway acquired a living snake that accentuated her thin waist.

Sister Ratched, Ratched

The costumes for the series were designed by Lou Eirich and Rebecca Guzzi. They have collaborated with Ryan Murphy since the early seasons of American Horror Story. For Sarah Paulson’s colorful outfits, they had to look for vintage items or sew them on their own, focusing on the clothes of post-war nurses.

Beth Harmon, Queen’s Move

In the era of a pandemic, only the series could become the most watched film masterpiece of the year. Queen’s Stroke has turned into a Netflix box office blockbuster in the weeks since its release. In the role of the chess player Beth Harmon, you can see the actress Anya Taylor-Joy. Her clothes reflect not only the era of the 60s, but also the inner state of the heroine. From strict school dresses, she “evolves” to the Twiggy style and snow-white total look with the help of the artist Gabriela Binder. Have you met more stylish movie heroines?

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Filigree is the jewelry art of creating unique patterns

Filigree is a jewelry technique for making elaborate openwork products from a very thin metal wire by connecting individual elements by soldering. The international term filigree in Russian has another synonym – “filigree”, both names are widely used in the lexicon of masters and art connoisseurs.

Filigree is a very complex and time-consuming technique, in which the artist spends several weeks or even months to create a unique jewelry masterpiece. Experienced craftsmen often complement products with inserts of precious stones, blackened silver, animal bones, pearls or pieces of wood.

Types and features of filigree

Filigree as an artistic method of metal processing is most often used in the manufacture of small jewelry. But with the help of this technique the craftsmen create other various products: figurines and sculptures; original dishes (bowls, cups, plates, cup holders); exquisite buttons; hats; belts; bracers; frames for icons and paintings; corners of bindings and covers of valuable books.

In jewelry, the following main types of filigree are distinguished:

• soldered;
• openwork;
• volumetric.

In the manufacture of soldered products, the master carefully solders the filigree pattern elements to the sheet metal base. The artist makes openwork objects exclusively from wire, directly connecting the individual elements of the decoration. The volumetric technique of filigree is used to create complex spatial art compositions (figurines or sculptures).

The main materials for filigree are various metals and alloys:

• gold;
• silver;
• platinum;
• copper;
• cupronickel;
• brass;
• nickel silver

Jewelers usually use in their work not smooth, but specially prepared filigree wire. It is made by tightly twisting two thin threads together and then flattening them with a hammer. When making jewelry, filigree is often combined with grain (small metal balls), and the surfaces are covered with special enamel.

The history of filigree

The history of filigree is about 5000 years old, and this jewelry technique was invented in Mesopotamia. This is evidenced by the numerous jewelry found during archaeological excavations created by ancient craftsmen. Later, the art of filigree spread to neighboring regions, it was mastered by the Phoenicians and Egyptians, Persians and Indians.

In the period from the 8th to the 4th centuries BC, the ancient technique was widespread in the lands of the Scythians. Local craftsmen have learned to create all kinds of jewelry and decor items in a unique animal style, including beautiful breast pectorals. The filigree technique was also familiar to the ancient Etruscans, Greeks and Romans, who adopted it from the Phoenician neighbors and carefully passed on the secrets of this craft from generation to generation.

In Northern Europe, the Celts, Britons and Saxons have achieved significant success in the field of artistic jewelry processing of metals. The earliest examples of filigree products found in the territory of modern England date back to the 7th century, including some artifacts from the largest Staffordshire hoard.

In the Middle Ages, filigree was widespread in the countries of southern Europe. Large centers for the production of jewelry existed in the territory of modern Spain, Portugal and Italy. Until the beginning of the Renaissance, the main customers of European filigree masters were the Catholic Church. The unique cult objects created in those times, such as reliquaries, crosses and bowls for worship, still arouse admiration.

Since the 16th century, the filigree technique has been perfectly mastered by masters in almost all countries of Western and Central Europe. From that time to the present day, the ancient method of artistic metal processing remains one of the most demanded in jewelry.

In Russia, the art of filigree began to develop rapidly at the beginning of the 18th century, after the secrets of this craft were brought by Swedish masters who came to permanent settlement. Over the next two centuries, unique filigree centers appeared in different parts of the Russian Empire. Including the most famous of them, located in the village of Krasnoe-on-Volga, Kostroma region.

Filigree remains a popular jewelry technique today. Unique examples of antiques, created by ancient masters, arouse great interest at art auctions among the most sophisticated public.

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Precious insectarium. Insects in the works of jewelers.

Perhaps there is no more controversial image in jewelry than the image of an insect in a jewelry. And at the same time, it is very fashionable and relevant at all times.

Our ancestors saw in a spider sitting in the center of its web, a solar deity, creating the universe out of itself.

Sometimes the spider is depicted next to a fly.

A fly is not only a victim, but also a protector.

She is also a symbol of bravery – brave soldiers in ancient times were awarded golden flies.

The fly was often depicted in full size in the most prominent place in the paintings of Dutch, German and Italian artists of the 15th – 16th centuries. This is a kind of talisman against real insects that could desecrate the paintings.

There is one more insect quite frightening outwardly, which, nevertheless, looks very impressive in jewelry.

Cicada is a symbol of longevity, happiness and eternal youth.

Probably the explanation for this is the fact that the cicada lives longer than all other insects – up to 18 years.

The origin of this symbol, apparently, is associated with the legend of the cicada: when she was a kind and just queen, after her death she was reborn in the form of a cicada. Having become a cicada, it did not age physically and lived longer than all other insects. Since then, the cicada has become a symbol of eternal youth.

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Celebrities in leopard print : 7 LOOKS THAT ARE NOT SHAME

Designers proclaimed the leopard one of the key trends of the coming spring. Celebrities willingly try it on and look stylish. We definitely have something to learn from them!

The stars in the leopard appear regularly on the red carpet and photo shoots. And we have something to learn from them, because such a print will become a hot trend next spring. It can already be seen in the Dior and Valentino collections.

Kate moss

We bet that the model Kate Moss has a separate wardrobe with things that are decorated with a leopard print. She loves animal-style bags, coats and fur coats. The leopard seems to reciprocate her: even when Moss tries on a dress with gold metallic threads, she catches admiring glances!

Olivia Palermo

If you don’t want to even think about a leopard total look, start small. For example, with details such as shorts, which can be paired with a neutral silk top and high-heeled sandals. A bulky bag will complement the look.

Rihanna

One of Rihanna’s favorites is Saint Laurent’s leopard-print one-shoulder dress. The original neckline emphasizes the feminine forms of the singer. And, of course, one cannot fail to note her penchant for fashion-maximalism: who else would dare to combine a leopard with boots made of python skin?

Angelina Jolie

On the fatal seductress Jolie, the animal print looks extremely organic. The celebrity wore a leopard trench coat with simple jeans. But this is not the most striking detail of the image – you immediately noticed the blood-red shoes, right?

Kristen prefers not only Chanel tweed jackets. She loves predatory prints, but in muted colors. If a leopard – then a mini with a classic silhouette in a discreet gray color.

Olivia Wilde

Harry Styles’s new lover loves non-trivial solutions. While others find leopard print too daring to experiment with shades and accessories, she wears a lemon peel dress.

Emma Roberts

Kate Moss could have accused her of plagiarism. Emma also often appears in a leopard coat and ripped jeans. Bohemian chic that can be created from a basic wardrobe in a couple of minutes!

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Bird jewerly a symbol of freedom

Bird jewerly is a symbol of freedom, lightness and well-being. In many cultures, they were totems, the embodiment of the divine. For example, in the myths of Ancient Greece, Zeus appeared more than once in the form of a white eagle. A gentle dove from the time of the Old Testament is a good messenger.

It is not surprising that birds became the protagonists of a variety of decorations, playing the role of a talisman. Today we choose jewelry with those birds that we like, without thinking about their symbolic meaning and the fact that they give out our character to those around us.

The dove

The dove is associated with love, peace, loyalty and purity. Simple silhouette of this bird is perfect for creating jewelry for every day. It can be seen on buzzard diamond stud earrings and a Tiffany thin chain pendant.

The crane

The crane is a symbol of longevity and fertility. For those who choose jewelry with this graceful bird, as a rule, family values come first. Today, miniature images of cranes stylized as origami figures are popular. As in the old days, the crane is believed to bring good luck to its owner.

Swallows

Swallows were often featured on jewelry during the Art Nouveau era. They convey the femininity and fragility of the beauty of the surrounding world. Large pendants and earrings with miniature birds were very popular. Today, real dreamers choose jewelry with swallows.

The peacock

The peacock has been considered a royal bird since ancient times. Its plumage in sapphire and emerald colors inspires jewelers around the world. Peacock jewelry is suitable for extraordinary artistic personalities. Examples include the legendary Walska brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels with a 95-carat pear-cut diamond and a luxurious Chopard bracelet.

Parrots

Parrots flutter from collection to collection of jewelry houses. These birds, the embodiment of coquetry and self-indulgence, appear before us in a wide variety of precious materials. Some of the most mischievous pieces can be seen in the Flora and Fauna collection by Cartier.

Swans

Swans represent love and loyalty. In most cases, they are embodied in clear diamonds. In the Animaux de Collection by Boucheron, you can see a black swan bracelet made of black sapphires.

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Diamond bows. The fashion for women’s jewelry in the form of a bow began in the 17th century. Brooches-bows with a pendant were then named after the writer Madame de Sevigne. Jewelry made of gold, pearls and bright precious stones were pinned to the dress in the neckline area, attracting maximum attention to their shapes.

In the Rococo era, a transparent diamond becomes the main mineral in jewelry. Diamond pendant bows are increasingly seen around the neck. Such decoration is depicted, for example, in the portraits of the Austrian princesses Maria Anna and Maria Amalia.

For several centuries, precious bows have not gone out of fashion. For the sake of trends, their shape changes, but the brilliant execution remains unchanged.

Jewelry House Van Cleef & Arpels Nœud necklace

In 2004, Van Cleef & Arpels presented a high jewelery masterpiece, the Nœud necklace. A yellow gold ribbon studded with yellow diamonds is woven with a white gold ribbon with clear diamonds in a casual bow. The sophisticated design makes the jewelry incredibly flexible, and the bow itself comes unfastened, turning into a brooch. “Quotes” of this necklace can be seen in the collections of various brands.

And today, bows are in fashion, collected from thin ribbons of white metal (gold or platinum), studded with diamonds, in combination with ribbons of other shades. For example, the fashion house Chanel in its Ruban jewelry collection effectively plays with the contrast of black and white.

At the beginning of 2017, Chaumet presented a collection of bows with pendants. In high jewelery, a diamond and white gold ribbon is intertwined with a rose gold string. This large round diamond pendant is a nod to tradition.

Tiffany collection with precious bows

The favorite brand of all girls, Tiffany, launches a collection with precious bows made of gold ribbons in different shades. According to the official version, the creation of these simple jewelry was inspired by the white ribbon from the legendary turquoise box.

Precious bows are the perfect choice for those who are not afraid to be mischievous or seem frivolous. Such jewelry will complement a luxurious evening outfit and “dilute” the strict image of a business woman. Plus, they are unlikely to go out of style. Proven for centuries!

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In Europe, butterflies were endowed with magical qualities. So, elves and other good magical creatures were depicted with the wings of butterflies. At the beginning of the 20th century, England was shocked by the news: fairies exist and they really have butterfly wings! Two little girls took pictures of them while walking in the woods. Many people believed in the reality of the pictures published in the main newspapers of the country, including Sir Conan Doyle, the author of books about Sherlock Holmes. In the 1980s, the photographs were revealed to be artful montage.

Thanks to the Art Nouveau style, which first captured Europe and then the whole world at the beginning of the 20th century, jewelry with butterfly girls “settled” in almost every lady’s caskets. The most striking examples of these magical creatures can be seen among the creations of the jewelers René Lalique and Henri Dubret.

Boucheron Butterfly Wing Necklace. Butterfly jewelry

In 2012, the Maison Boucheron presented the Bouquet d’Ailes necklace, inspired by the fragile world of Art Nouveau. This high jewelery piece is perhaps the most sophisticated version of the iconic question mark – Point d’Interrogation. Emeralds, sapphires of various shades, diamonds and semi-precious stones, thanks to the talent of jewelers, have turned into an almost weightless branch on which beautiful butterflies rest.

Van Cleef and Arpels Ballerina Butterfly Jewel

Van Cleef and Arpels first created butterfly jewelry back in the 1920s. They were so popular that the company decided to release a complete collection entirely dedicated to these insects – Two Butterfly. She remains a real hit of sales to this day. Butterflies from time to time “fly” into the collection of high jewelry art Van Cleef and Arpels. For example, the luxurious Mysterious Butterfly brooch did not leave indifferent any fan of the brand.

Jewelry of the Graff jewelry house from the Pave Butterfly collection

The House of Graff also has miniature jewelry with butterflies: laconic – in the traditional Pave Butterfly collection and openwork – in the genre of high jewelry. The latter can be worn as a brooch or as a hair clip. In 2016, at Baselworld, the House of Graff presented the Princess Butterfly collection of transforming watches. The product can be worn as a luxurious bracelet, and if you wish, by opening the wings of a butterfly, you can find out what time it is. In total, four versions of the jewelry were created: with sapphires, with rubies, with emeralds and completely diamond.

The author’s set with butterflies from buzzard is suitable for a ceremonial appearance. The wing-flapping effect is achieved thanks to the diamond wings. With every movement, the jewelry seems to come to life. White gold earrings are encrusted with 196 natural sapphires and 232 round diamonds, and the ring is decorated with 64 round diamonds, 98 sapphires give it a deep blue color.

Butterfly jewelry can be a great gift for a close and beloved woman as a wish for a long, carefree and happy life.

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